North Bay bills itself as the gateway to the north, though much of Canada, and eight U.S. states, may have something to say about that.
Situated at 46.31° N, North Bay is actually positioned south of a surprising number of regions. Minnesota, North Dakota, Montana, Washington, Idaho, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine – not to mention Alaska - extend above North Bay's latitude. But what North Bay lacks in remote northern reaches, it more than compensates for with accessibility. Don’t get me wrong, this is nowhere near the Greater Toronto Area in terms of being swallowed up in its ever-growing suburban sprawl. It’s almost exactly the same distance, approximately 350km, from Ottawa as well. There’s not an epic voyage required to get there. A perfect balance, I think.
It’s further north than Muskoka, the long-time summer playground of Toronto’s well-to-do, but only about an hour's drive north of Huntsville. But, for whatever reason, that extra drive has proven too much for the bulk of the waterfront cottage crowd.
The shoreline of North Bay is primarily parkland and, as you stretch south towards Callander, you’ll find a bunch of waterfront hotel options. But none are overgrown tower complexes. Instead, there’s a pleasant mix of history and and modern convenience. Motels, cottages and smaller hotels abound. The Water Ways TV crew stayed at Glen Garry Motel & Cottages which, along with the motel rooms, has 9 smaller cottages. We were able to set up shop in a comfy three-bedroom with Lake Nipissing views. Unreal! And super convenient.
This area is perfect for outdoor lovers. In the summer it’s an angler’s paradise with massive Lake Nipissing leading to the French River to challenge your skills whether you’re targeting bass or musky. There are plenty of smaller lakes and rivers nearby to explore, as well. It’s also a winter wonderland with some of the best snowmobile and ice fishing opportunities around.
But, long before it became an outdoor adventurer’s paradise, it was a strategic location for trade and transport. For thousands of years the First Nations of the region used this region for transport. In the early 17th century, the first European explorers followed their footsteps and became enmeshed in the region as well. In Ontario, particularly in the Greater Toronto Area where the bulk of the population lives, it’s easy to forget about the French influence and origins of the province's culture. Canada, and much of North America, owes its European colonization to the French.
Known as the “Father of New France,” the exploits of Samuel de Champlain are beyond legendary. Amongst his myriad of accomplishments, he founded Quebec City in 1608 -- the oldest city in mainland Canada and one of oldest in North America. He was also responsible for mapping and charting much of the New World and helping to pioneer the fur trade with indigenous peoples.
In 1615, he arrived to the area that is now North Bay. Working with this guides and voyageurs, they traversed hundreds of kilometres with massive canoes and hundreds of kilos of gear. Working their way from Trout Lake down to Lake Nipissing his crew followed streams and ponds created by beaver dams to reach the La Vase river which flowed into Lake Nipissing. La Vase is French for mud (or slime). That plus the beaver-dam description should paint a picture of a marshy, swampy area.
A marshy, swampy area is not the easiest to develop, so, having no overwhelming push from the population centres of Ottawa or Toronto, there was no need to fill it all in and build modern structures. As a result, a large portion of the stretch between Trout Lake and Lake Nipissing is – almost – exactly as Champlain would have found it in 1615, which is 'almost' exactly as the First Nations would have found it generations before. I use the 'almost' qualifier because there are a few small changes including a railway trestle bridge that has foundations that slightly altered the landscape, plus there’s another section of railway. Other than that, the ponds that beaver dams created centuries ago have, seemingly, remained in similar form.
But, that’s starting to change. Nothing can be taken for granted, particularly nature. Thanksfully, a group called Friends of La Vase Portages has stepped up to act as de facto guardians of this 10-kilometre stretch. They also guide groups from 8 to 80 people along the historic Voyageur canoe route. There is no official age requirement, but being fully capable of climbing over unstable ground is non-negotiable. You need to get out of the canoe a few times and there are actual portages where you carry the canoe across unpaved paths through nature.
Then there are the beaver dams. Those impossibly marvelous constructions made by the largest rodents in North America (and second in the world, behind only the capybaras of South America). The collection of sticks and mud are packed together with remarkable efficacy. And while it may seem wildly bizarre to put your full body weight on these seemingly delicate structures, when you understand that they are holding back an entire pond a few feet deep you build up the courage for that first, albeit hesitant, step. And when there’s no give but the crack of a few smaller, extraneous twigs that aren’t vital to the structural integrity, the confidence grows. And before long the only concern is balance and trying to ensure it’s just your shoes that get wet. It's an experience that we feature in Episode 2 of the all-new, provincially focused show: Water Ways: Ontario, and one I highly recommend trying out.
I’ll end by admitting this: I don’t think I ever would have given this a go had North Bay Tourism not pointed out that it’s a very cool experience. They were bang on. I could have missed out on a perfect marriage of living history and boating adventure. It’s not for everyone. It’s not the relaxing sunset cruise on Chief Commanda II (also in the same episode). But it’s a bite-sized adventure that is a genuinely amazing experience!
I can't recommend it enough for every adventurer. You just have to be prepared.
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